B A R G A I N

[MGE]

On my travels today I wondered into a Cash Converters
In there I noticed this (http://www.plasma.com/pioneersound/vsx-c300.htm) cheeky little number just begging to be bought.

The price?
£50 ($80.16US)

I found it online going for $299US (£186.49) :jawsdown
So I saved LOADS on this bargain!!!!

For the linking impaired it has:
DTS Digital Surround
Accurate Imaging System : 5-Channel Equal Power
Digital Signal Processor (DSP)
Dolby Digital
Dolby Pro Logic Surround
5-D Theater
Super Bass
Motor Driven Volume Control (Electronic)
96 kHz/24-bit Audio D/A Converter
MPEG Audio (Digital Output) (BC)
Advanced Theater : Musical, Drama, Action
Midnight listening mode (No Idea what this is)
Random Preset Stations : 30
RDS Tuner: functions : RT, PS and PTY display
DVD Control
Remote Control with Power On/Off (Preset)
FL Dimmer
Digital Optical Input : 3 (front 1)
Preamp Output (SW)
SR (System Remote) Terminal In/out
Audio (Tuner Included) / Video Inputs : 1/4
A/V Input on Front
Digital Input : 3
A/V Outputs : 1 AV + 2 V

Pioneer VSX-C300 5-Channel Dolby Digital with
AV Input Slim Design Home Cinema Specifications:

Power Output Wattage x 2-Channel: 50 Watts or less per channel
Power Output Wattage x 5, 6 or 7 Channel: 50 Watts or less per Channel
Channels: 5.1 (Dolby Digital®, DTS®)
Dolby Digital and DTS Decoders Built-In: Yes
DAC Speed/Bit Rate of Digital to Analog Audio Converter: 96 kHz/24-bit
Bass Boost: Yes
Preset Sound Fields: Yes
Remote Control Type: Standard Remote Control
Non-Categorized Inputs: SR (System Remote) Terminal
Non-Categorized Outputs: SR (System Remote) Terminal; A/B Speaker Terminals
Front A/V Inputs: Yes
Number of Audio Inputs: 1
Number of A/V Inputs: 4
Number of Optical Digital Inputs: 3
Number of Video Outputs: 2
Number of A/V Outputs: 1
Sub-Amp (Pre-Amp Output for Subwoofer): Yes

I RULE! :KICKASS :KICKASS :KICKASS :KICKASS :shocking :shocking :shocking :devil :devil :devil :KICK ASS :KICK ASS :KICK ASS :KICK ASS :KICK ASS :KICK ASS :KICK ASS

[MGE]

O, and I forgot to mention, it also has a FAN in the back of it, so it MUST be TOP! :D :rofl2

[egarrard]

If you don't listen to your music REALLY loud, it should be fine. It would make a great amp for your computer system.

[MGE]

Originally posted by egarrard
If you don't listen to your music REALLY loud, it should be fine. It would make a great amp for your computer system.

Thats what its being used as ;)
The 'Monitor' output is wired into my Pioneer 250Watt amp :KICK ASS

And, when I get the Live Drive for my SBLive, then its being wired Optically! :KICK ASS

[efernandez_98]

Neato!

http://www.plasma.com/pioneersound/smallimages/vsx-c300.gif (http://www.plasma.com/pioneersound/largeimages/vsx-c300.gif)

[MGE]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
Neato!

http://www.plasma.com/pioneersound/smallimages/vsx-c300.gif (http://www.plasma.com/pioneersound/largeimages/vsx-c300.gif)

You Really love those clickable images don't you? :Blah

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by MGE
You Really love those clickable images don't you? :Blah You know it baby. 1 jpg = 1k words.

[JCYC5]

Niiice!

£50...

:thumb

[TheGeekMistress]

you picked this up for only $80 !?!?! :jawsdown ...mind tellin me where you got it?


i read the specs sounds like a great deal for a quality part. only thing i didn't see in the specs is the S/N Ratio and Pioneers are know to be a tad lacking in that department. seems like a great deal tho. :thumb

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by egarrard
If you don't listen to your music REALLY loud, it should be fine. It would make a great amp for your computer system. i dunno if anyone else has had these problems, but when i hook up my home theater reciever to my computer i get an annoying sound in the audio. it sounds like a little annoying "hmm". i'm sure that it's electro magnetic line noise from the computer, but how the heck do ya get rid of it!?!?! ...i know there's a way and that it's only transmitted thru the physical line, b/c i tried hooking up a wireless transmiter/reciever unit and the noise was gone. but i got poor sound quality from doing it this way. :Sigh

this receiver that MGE got should play MP3's decent as well, seeing how it has a 96 kHZ / 24 bit DAC. :thumb ...now if only the 192 kHZ DACs would come in the lower end recievers.

[MGE]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
i dunno if anyone else has had these problems, but when i hook up my home theater reciever to my computer i get an annoying sound in the audio. it sounds like a little annoying "hmm". i'm sure that it's electro magnetic line noise from the computer, but how the heck do ya get rid of it!?!?!

I downloaded the PDF file instruction manual for this device has somethinf about that 'humming' you can hear when hooked upto the computer.

It states don't put the audio cables anywhere near anything with magnets in.
(In the manual, it says don't put the wires near the top of the unit because of all the transformers inside)

So, you could get some filters for the cables, the Ferrit core ones that you see on Monitors, etc to screen out some of the noise.

Also, unless the sound card outputs are ultra screened and filtered, you will always get a little bit of humming.
My SBLive always makes my system hum, but you can only hear it if you crank the volume high enough on both my A/V reciever and my Amp.

[MGE]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
you picked this up for only $80 !?!?! :jawsdown ...mind tellin me where you got it?


i read the specs sounds like a great deal for a quality part. only thing i didn't see in the specs is the S/N Ratio and Pioneers are know to be a tad lacking in that department. seems like a great deal tho. :thumb

I got it from a Cash Converters.
People take stuff in they no longer want, the shop buys it off them, and then sells it themselves.

I was just lucky really, I wondered in, almost like it was Destiny to get this PHAT piece of equipment!
I got it as it looked like someone had a change of heart.

They were really examining it, and then walked away.
There loss! :KICK ASS
I took one look at it, summened the guy over and said "I'll take that please!" :KICK ASS :KICK ASS
Then, I had to walk back from Stockport town center with this HEAVY bar-steward, in a plastic bag.

[JCYC5]

Wow, that was a lucky one!

Great deal... :D

[MGE]

I know, I coudn't belive my luck when I got it! :D

I'm still chuffed now! :D :D

And, I have already noticed an improvement on sound quality from my computer with this little beauty! :D

I can't wait untill its wired up optically to my computer, I'll be able to use the advanced functions better on it :)

:banana

[MGE]

This thing gets HOT, I have had it at a volume level of -10db (maximum= +-0db, minimum= -79db, in 1db increments)
and it is really really really warm all over the unit.
The fan at the back was on and really going for it as well! :D

I think I might 'Mod' it and stick in a few more fans.
Perhaps one or two on the side intake?

I have loads of chipset fans lying about anyway :D

[JCYC5]

1 top exhaust would be good enough... negative pressure always seems to work better....

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
1 top exhaust would be good enough... negative pressure always seems to work better....

Yeah, suppose so, but then I lose my storage space for my DVD's on top of the unit :(

I need to find out if the fan at the back is exhausting air, or sucking it into the unit really.

I was thinking anout putting a couple of fans on the side intake part because it looks like I can just attach the fans really easily with the right screws.
And, that would push the air over the main heat generating parts of the unit as well.

Its pretty crowded in there as it is, so a 'blow hole' fan might not work with all the ribbon cables and PCB's in the way, too much obstruction.
I'll see what can be done anyway :)

[JCYC5]

Cover the left side with intakes, cover the right side with exhausts. :KICK ASS

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
Cover the left side with intakes, cover the right side with exhausts. :KICK ASS

Good idea! :KICK ASS
I'll look into that.

I was thinking about puting intakes on the left, and then putting some flow guides for the air, so it goes all around the inside of the case, and then out the back.

Or, take the air in from the back (Which is next to a window, so lots of cool air available) and exhaust it out the side.

Next time I take the lid off again, I'll take a closer look to see which option is more viable.
I *think* there was loads of vertical PCBs near the right had side of the unit, so they would obstruct airflow.
I'll take a closer look soon anyway :)

[JCYC5]

Water cooling?

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
Water cooling?

Don't tempt me :KICK ASS :rofl2

[JCYC5]

You'll end up spending more money than what it would have cost you to get froma online retailer :lmao

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
You'll end up spending more money than what it would have cost you to get froma online retailer :lmao

I know.
I tink I'll just stick with the fans :KICK ASS

[JCYC5]

Tell again, how many fans do you have access to?

[Artcwolf]

Originally posted by MGE
I got it from a Cash Converters.
People take stuff in they no longer want, the shop buys it off them, and then sells it themselves.

Sounds like what we call in the States, a Pawn Shop.

[JCYC5]

Same name for 'em over here.

[SavesNFGDay]

Originally posted by Artcwolf
Sounds like what we call in the States, a Pawn Shop. Yep, mmmm...that's where I picked up my car deck, for rather cheap too...

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by MGE
I downloaded the PDF file instruction manual for this device has somethinf about that 'humming' you can hear when hooked upto the computer.

It states don't put the audio cables anywhere near anything with magnets in.
(In the manual, it says don't put the wires near the top of the unit because of all the transformers inside)

So, you could get some filters for the cables, the Ferrit core ones that you see on Monitors, etc to screen out some of the noise.

Also, unless the sound card outputs are ultra screened and filtered, you will always get a little bit of humming.
My SBLive always makes my system hum, but you can only hear it if you crank the volume high enough on both my A/V reciever and my Amp. yah, i got lot's of "hum" out of my old system and SBLive card. i have a new system now and a new sound card, maybe i'll try it again and see. i gave up on that idea a bit back b/c my receiver's DACs are not high res ones (48 kHZ/20bit). so the music sounded a bit distorted and not nearly as bright as the Altech Lansing ATP4.1's i have now.

the reason i'm trying to figure this out is really for my HTPC. i want to hook that system up to my reciever. the only way i can see doing it with the experience i've had so far is to try those wireless transmiter/receiver unit's i had before. that took every last bit of "hum" out, but also gave me lesser sound quality. :(

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by MGE
I got it from a Cash Converters.
People take stuff in they no longer want, the shop buys it off them, and then sells it themselves.

I was just lucky really, I wondered in, almost like it was Destiny to get this PHAT piece of equipment!
I got it as it looked like someone had a change of heart.

They were really examining it, and then walked away.
There loss! :KICK ASS
I took one look at it, summened the guy over and said "I'll take that please!" :KICK ASS :KICK ASS
Then, I had to walk back from Stockport town center with this HEAVY bar-steward, in a plastic bag. wowzerz! congrats on your puchase and great luck :thumb

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by MGE
Good idea! :KICK ASS
I'll look into that.

I was thinking about puting intakes on the left, and then putting some flow guides for the air, so it goes all around the inside of the case, and then out the back.

Or, take the air in from the back (Which is next to a window, so lots of cool air available) and exhaust it out the side.

Next time I take the lid off again, I'll take a closer look to see which option is more viable.
I *think* there was loads of vertical PCBs near the right had side of the unit, so they would obstruct airflow.
I'll take a closer look soon anyway :) yah, intake in the back and dual exhuast on the sides sounds like a good plan to me. even if the side "fan ports" are blocking the air path somewut, b/c if you're exhuasting that wud still be ok. and JCYC5 is right, negative pressure is always best. it will pull the hot spots out of the enclosure that c00l air blowing in wud miss.

[MGE]

It will be my next project :)

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
yah, intake in the back and dual exhuast on the sides sounds like a good plan to me. even if the side "fan ports" are blocking the air path somewut, b/c if you're exhuasting that wud still be ok. and JCYC5 is right, negative pressure is always best. it will pull the hot spots out of the enclosure that c00l air blowing in wud miss. Negative pressure is not the "golden rule" to good airflow. I've always considered a lopsided approach to airflow to be poorly managed. In essence, the air may not be flowing in the problem areas that you would wish it to, rather it may be taking shortcuts out of the case, bypassing the hot components.

Without seeing the layout of the component, I would have to agree with JC's latter statement.

Originally posted by JCYC5
Cover the left side with intakes, cover the right side with exhausts.

[JCYC5]

:KICK ASS

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
Negative pressure is not the "golden rule" to good airflow. I've always considered a lopsided approach to airflow to be poorly managed. In essence, the air may not be flowing in the problem areas that you would wish it to, rather it may be taking shortcuts out of the case, bypassing the hot components.

Without seeing the layout of the component, I would have to agree with JC's latter statement. wut i've found over the years is that creating negative pressure to evacuate all the air in the case with the addition of small fans for "spot cooling" is the best answere.

[JCYC5]

Unfortunetly, my $H|ttY case has 6 fans, 4 intake and 2 exhaust, all dragging 1 cfm of air...

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
wut i've found over the years is that creating negative pressure to evacuate all the air in the case with the addition of small fans for "spot cooling" is the best answere. That's fine, I believe you have found what works best in your situations, but negative pressure is still not "the golden rule." Any HVAC engineer will agree, since there is no single solution as the best scenario for every situation in terms of proper airflow management. Each scenario must be evaluated and designed accordingly.

For instance, in a computer case, soley dependant on negative pressure can cause air and dust to be sucked through the smallest holes including those from removeable drives like floppy disks and cdroms. In a highly dusty enviroment this can cause dust settle into odd areas if unchecked can cause horrible effects. Proper airflow is still necessary manage, since devices like hard drives and PC cards can create partitions in the airflow leaving dead spots and eddies. Also cool air comming into the case may not be used effiecently and flowing towards the high temperature regions instead it may be taking shortcuts out of the case.

And of course, I'm talking about situations where the side panel isn't removed. ;)

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
That's fine, I believe you have found what works best in your situations, but negative pressure is still not "the golden rule." i'm sorry, i never meant to imply that negetive pressure was the "golden rule". i don't believe it is at all. but i do believe that it would be a good thing in this case.

[JCYC5]

Well, positive would not be as effective here since there are many obsticals in there you don't know about. Therefore, negative air pressure would pull air in through all the cracks and gaps, being more effective in this case...

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by JCYC5
Well, positive would not be as effective here since there are many obsticals in there you don't know about. Therefore, negative air pressure would pull air in through all the cracks and gaps, being more effective in this case... Actually, I was thinking of a more balanced approach myself. A lopsided approach to airflow in either direction can be very bad.

[bahgger]

... And then you find out it uses 240V so you have to buy a converter to change it to 110V. :rolleyes:

[JCYC5]

I don't :Wink

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by bahgger
... And then you find out it uses 240V so you have to buy a converter to change it to 110V. :rolleyes: were you directing this the MGE? he lives in the UK so he won't have to either. :KICK ASS

[MGE]

Originally posted by bahgger
... And then you find out it uses 240V so you have to buy a converter to change it to 110V. :rolleyes:

I could power the fans from the output of the mains transformer inside the unit.

The trasformer gives off the following voltages:
4v AC
7v AC
12v AC

They are then fed into a Bridge Recifier (A collection of Diodes) to turn the AC current into DC.
So, I already have a converter in there, all I need to do is get a multi-meter to measure what current is coming off what pin.

[Artcwolf]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
Actually, I was thinking of a more balanced approach myself. A lopsided approach to airflow in either direction can be very bad.

I think you're both wrong...

You should put the whole damn thing in a deep freezer and be done w/ it. :p

[JCYC5]

I don't get why if you plug a 240V device into a 110V plug it will explode whereas if you plug a 110V device into a 240V plug it will only catch fire...

[MGE]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
were you directing this the MGE? he lives in the UK so he won't have to either. :KICK ASS

Yeah.
It uses a 240V 50Hz power supply.

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by JCYC5
I don't get why if you plug a 240V device into a 110V plug it will explode whereas if you plug a 110V device into a 240V plug it will only catch fire... you mean you've actually done this?!?!?! lol

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
I don't get why if you plug a 240V device into a 110V plug it will explode whereas if you plug a 110V device into a 240V plug it will only catch fire...

I don't think a 240V device will explode when you plug it into a 110V outlet.
I have done just that, and unless the device is designed to operate on 110V it just won't work.

Now, obviously, plugging a 110V device into a 240V outlet will result in smoke, because your putting an extra hundred or so Volts thru a device only designed for 110V.

[JCYC5]

school computer... (P2 223s)

attractive 110/240V orange toggle switch on the back of the ps...

You know... twitchy hands...

[MGE]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
you mean you've actually done this?!?!?! lol

I have :)

110V into a 240V device = Not enough power.
So unless its something small, it might not work.

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
I don't get why if you plug a 240V device into a 110V plug it will explode whereas if you plug a 110V device into a 240V plug it will only catch fire...

Another thing to consider: Mains Frequency.
UK appliances are designed to operate at 240V, between 3Amps and 13Amps, at a frequency of 50Hz.

If the frequency were to change, the device would not behave as it was supposed to.

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by JCYC5
school computer... (P2 223s)

attractive 110/240V orange toggle switch on the back of the ps...

You know... twitchy hands... as JC quietly walks away, the class suddenly notices the computer lab suddenly bursts into flames.

:Holy Crap :eek: :Holy Crap :eek: :Holy Crap :eek:

:lmao

[JCYC5]

It just went pop and ripped the case where the powersupply is...

[MGE]

Originally posted by JCYC5
It just went pop and ripped the case where the powersupply is...

Putting 110V into a 240V device made it go pop?

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by MGE
Putting 110V into a 240V device made it go pop? What, you were maybe expecting Snap and Crackle to come along?

[MGE]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
What, you were maybe expecting Snap and Crackle to come along?

No, I just don't see how it could happen.

When I was in the states, my video camera charger was a 240V device, and it worked fine on the 110V sockets over there, granted it took about twice as long to charge but it still worked.

I don't understand how putting less than half the recommended voltage into a device can cause it damage.

Volts is the 'pushing' force of the electricity.
Amps is the actual power.

[efernandez_98]

Originally posted by MGE
No, I just don't see how it could happen.

When I was in the states, my video camera charger was a 240V device, and it worked fine on the 110V sockets over there, granted it took about twice as long to charge but it still worked.

I don't understand how putting less than half the recommended voltage into a device can cause it damage.

Volts is the 'pushing' force of the electricity.
Amps is the actual power. that's because you are not taking in to consideration the JCYC5 factor.

[TheGeekMistress]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
that's because you are not taking in to consideration the JCYC5 factor. lol :lmao TT

[MGE]

Originally posted by efernandez_98
that's because you are not taking in to consideration the JCYC5 factor.

Ah yes, silly me :)

[MGE]

Originally posted by TheGeekMistress
i read the specs sounds like a great deal for a quality part. only thing i didn't see in the specs is the S/N Ratio and Pioneers are know to be a tad lacking in that department. seems like a great deal tho. :thumb

I found out the Signal to Noise ratio:
{DIN (Continuous rated power output/50mW)}
88dB/64dB